Denim History
The history of denim in America dates back to the 1840s, when the durability of the warp-faced twill textile made it a proven choice for workwear clothing. Pants and overalls were much in demand.
For field workers, coal miners, lumberjacks, and cowboys, denim was an inexpensive clothing option that was widely available and came in all sizes. During the California Gold Rush of 1848 to 1855, prospectors were commonly seen dressed in their denim work clothing, field jackets and hip waders.
In 1873, David Jacobs and Levi Strauss registered a patent for the first denim jeans—their signature 501 jeans. The original design offered four pockets (later changed to five), with copper rivets sewn to reinforce the material at wear points. Over time, certain features changed, including the removal of rivets from the crotch area during World War II due to metal rationing and the omission of a cinch strap across the back of the waistband that allowed size adjustment. A sample page from the 1908 Sears Roebuck catalog listed "working pants, jumpers and overalls of all kinds," with prices ranging from 48 cents for a double-bib, blue apron pair of overalls to 64 cents for a pair of heavy red-back denim overalls with reinforced and riveted pockets.
As the decades passed, denim's reputation for durability made it indispensable not just for workers but also for the military. During World War II, the U.S. military adopted denim for work uniforms and utility garments, relying on its ruggedness for the demanding tasks faced by soldiers. Denim jackets and trousers became standard issue for many service members, who wore them both at home and overseas. This military application of denim reinforced its status as the fabric of choice for those who needed reliable, hard-wearing clothing in the toughest conditions.
Japanese Raw Selvedge Denim
Japan was introduced to denim in the 1950s when American soldiers stationed there traded their Levi's jeans for Japanese provisions. Japanese weavers took notice of this rugged fabric and began producing their own denim—but with twists that set it apart from its American counterpart.
First, they used old-fashioned shuttle looms, which produced a denser, sturdier fabric than modern high-speed looms. Operating at a slower pace, these looms result in a tighter weave and the distinctive self-finished edges of the fabric, which prevent fraying and unraveling.
Second, instead of dyeing the fabric after it was woven, they dyed the yarn before weaving. This process, known as rope dyeing, involves repeatedly dipping the cotton yarn into vats of indigo dye. The dye penetrates only the outer layers of the yarn, leaving the core white. This technique results in a deep indigo blue that fades uniquely over time, as the outer dyed layers wear away to reveal the lighter core.
Third, they embraced the concept of "loom state" or "raw denim," meaning the fabric is woven and left in its natural state without additional treatments or washes. This preserves the texture and characteristics of the denim, allowing it to mold to the wearer's body and develop personalized fades and creases with wear.
Owen Stitch Signature Denim
Sourced from Japan Blue Vintage Mill
Nestled in the heart of Okayama Prefecture lies Kojima. This small town has become synonymous with heritage denim craftsmanship. Home to some of the world's finest denim weavers, including the renowned Japan Blue Vintage Mill. The craftsmen here are dedicated to preserving traditional methods while pushing the boundaries of quality and keeping old shuttle looms alive.
Crafted from short-staple organic cotton, our selvage denim is custom-made in small batches using nine Toyoda looms, each producing a mere 14 meters of fabric per day. Every running meter of fabric is self-finished with our signature red ID selvage. A slow process, no doubt, but like anything that truly matters, it's worth the time it takes.
Denim Field Goods
Made in Owen Stitch
We manufacture our denim goods in our own factory and do it the old way—the right way. We sourced and rebuilt a combination of vintage and new machinery. This journey took us a year, followed by another year to refine our production process. Each machine is customized to produce the toughest denim goods.
Keeping production in-house allows us to consider every aspect of each pattern, add reinforcement where it's needed most and stitch with a quality-first mindset.
Our manufacturing lines are set up for two essential field products: OC450 Jeans and OC451 Jacket. Both share the same characteristics as denim's origins—built for hardworking men, ranch hands, outdoorsmen and workers in the field.
